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Showing posts from December, 2018

Bottega Veneta RTW Fall 2018

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New York, New York — it’s a hell of a town. And a hell of a housing market. As a part-time resident, Tomas Maier surely knows that. Nevertheless, when he decided to show his Bottega Veneta collection here to mark the opening of the brand’s new flagship on Madison Avenue, he wanted to show in a home-like setting, the apartment of an imaginary urbane Italian with a penchant for Milanese chic crossed with exotica acquired from global travels. Maier thus undertook the hunt for a location where such an apartment could be created; it would have to meet specific parameters — soaring ceilings and no columns. He found only two possibilities and chose the American Stock Exchange building. Along with Alex de Betak, who typically works on Bottega’s shows, Maier brought in Broadway set designer Scott Pask for the project. That’s an unfortunate reality of staging shows intended as mega, never-before events — when glitches happen, they become the lead talking point in post-mortem co...

Jeremy Scott RTW Fall 2018

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Things to remember going into a Jeremy Scott show: Patience. It might interfere with your bedtime; definitely your dinner. A lint brush. There is a high probability of leaving covered in sequins, confetti or the fuzz from the free Longchamp bag tufted in fake fur on your seat. Above all, a sense of humor. Scott’s fall show required all of these things, and as long as the latter was intact, it was a breeze. His sci-fi ravers were a fusion of “The Fifth Element,” sporty club kids, innocuous bondage, Popples and Cicciolina, the porn star and former Mrs. Jeff Koons who was known to carry the Eighties plush toys on the red carpet. Scott collaborated with the brand on some prints. The models wore candy-colored blunt wigs that more often than not matched their legwear — purple tights, blue and orange tights, and thigh-high moon boots that didn’t look comfortable but made you smile. There were cropped jackets with bustier seams, terry tracksuits, silver foil contraptions, spacey skirts...

New York Fashion Week: Men’s Fall 2018 Best Moments

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New York Fashion Week: Men’s 2018 ran over three days. Nonetheless, in a slick show that was the climax of the roster even though it fell at the midpoint of the schedule Tuesday night, Tom Ford made his fevered case for why we still need men’s fashion shows even though, more and more, they seem headed for extinction.   Ford held his first all-men’s outing stateside and a nod to his label’s 10th anniversary, about why he still believes in men’s presentations, noting that men are “excited by a change in the lapel. They are excited by a change in a shoulder or by the use of a new fabric, by very subtle things.” Of course, Tom the consummate showman didn’t stint on the drama either. Aside from some flashy underwear, Ford offered much more for peacocking men. He opened with a tonal look, one of his trademarks: ivory shearling jean jacket, python-print trousers and matching rocker boots with oversize amber shades. (Never forget that Ford started his post-Gucci comeback wit...